Pisang Peak Climbing (6,091 m)

Climbing Grade of the Pisang Peak Climbing

Pisang Peak is classified under the "Alpine PD+" grade when it comes to its climbing difficulty. In alpine grading, PD stands for "Peu Difficile," which means "a little difficult" in French. The "+" indicates that it is on the more challenging end of the PD spectrum.

Here's a breakdown of what the PD+ grade means for climbers:

• Moderate Difficulty: While Pisang Peak is accessible to climbers with limited high-altitude experience, it does present some technical challenges. The PD+ grade means that the climb is somewhat difficult but not overly technical.
• Mixed Terrain: Climbers can expect a combination of snow, ice, and rock terrains. The sections involving rock and ice climbing require proper technique and use of climbing equipment.
• Use of Technical Gear: Climbers will need to be proficient in using climbing equipment such as crampons, ice axes, ropes, and harnesses. Certain sections might require fixed ropes or belaying.
• Altitude Challenges: Being over 6,000 meters, altitude sickness is a genuine concern. Proper acclimatization and monitoring of health are crucial throughout the expedition.
• Crevasses and Snowfields: While the crevasse risk on Pisang Peak is not as significant as on some other peaks, there are sections with snowfields that require careful navigation.
• Exposed Sections: Some parts of the climb, especially near the summit ridge, can be exposed, requiring climbers to have a good head for heights and steady nerves.

While Pisang Peak is considered one of the more accessible 6,000-meter peaks in the Himalayas, climbers should not underestimate it. A solid foundation in mountaineering skills, good physical fitness, and proper preparation are essential for a successful ascent.

Tourist Visa

Visa Upon Arrival

Nepal offers a Visa Upon Arrival service for most nationalities at Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport and certain land border crossings. To get the visa, you'll need to fill out an application form, which can often be done electronically at kiosks in the immigration hall.

You will need:

• A valid passport with at least six months remaining.
• Passport-sized photos (though the kiosks usually have a photo capture system).
• Visa fee, which depends on the duration of your stay.

Apply in Advance

• Alternatively, you can also apply for a visa in advance through a Nepalese embassy or consulate in your home country.
• This can be beneficial if you want to avoid potential queues or complications upon arrival.

You will need:

• A completed visa application form (usually downloadable from the embassy/consulate website).
• Your original passport with at least six months remaining.
• Passport-sized photos.
• Visa fee.

Online Application

Nepal's Department of Immigration has an online application system where you can fill out your visa form up to 15 days before your arrival date in Nepal. Once you've filled out the form, you'll receive a submission receipt with barcode, which you need to print out and bring with you to the immigration office upon arrival in Nepal.

On-Arrival Visa Fee at Entry Points
15 Days – 30 USD
30 Days – 50 USD
90 Days – 125 USD

These fees are payable in various major currencies, not just USD.

Visa rules and regulations are subject to change, and there might be additional requirements for certain nationalities. Therefore, it's always a good idea to check the latest information from the official website of the Department of Immigration of Nepal or contact the local Nepalese embassy or consulate in your country.

Getting to Nepal

Nestled amidst the towering peaks of the Himalayas, Nepal is a gem that attracts travelers from all corners of the globe. The journey to this mountainous nation is an experience in itself. Here's a comprehensive guide on how to get to Nepal:

By Air:

Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu (KTM):

• As the nation's primary international gateway, Kathmandu's airport connects Nepal with several major cities worldwide. Airlines such as Qatar Airways, Emirates, Turkish Airlines, Air India, and Cathay Pacific frequently fly here, providing travelers with various scheduling and pricing options.
• Due to Nepal's geographical location, direct flights can be limited. However, several major hubs like Doha, Delhi, Istanbul, and Bangkok frequently serve as layover points, seamlessly connecting Nepal with the world.
• Upon landing, travelers will find the visa on arrival process to be efficient and user-friendly, especially for those from eligible countries. Just ensure you have the required documents and the process should be smooth.

By Land:

• From India: The Sunauli/Belahiya border crossing stands out as the predominant entry point for those journeying from India. This border is well-connected and serves as a strategic link for travelers keen on exploring both countries.
• From Tibet/China: For those coming from the northern side, the Kodari and Gyirong Port border crossings serve as the primary entry points. These crossings, while majestic in their high-altitude settings, necessitate a bit more preparation due to the terrain and additional travel documentation for Tibet.

Note: It's always a good idea to check the current status of land border crossings and any required permits or paperwork in advance.

Luxury Holidays Nepal Touch:

Your comfort and convenience are of utmost importance to us. Upon providing your arrival details, our representative from Luxury Holidays Nepal will await you at the airport, ready to whisk you away to your Kathmandu accommodation. This ensures your journey starts on a positive note, without the usual stresses of navigating a new place. If there are any unexpected changes or delays in your travel plans, kindly keep our team in the loop. We're here to ensure your expedition begins and ends on the best possible note.

Domestic Flights

Domestic flights in Nepal are the main intercommunication to reach the region where you are going for your expedition as most of these regions are disconnected by road transport. Your flights into the Khumbu and any other region that are mentioned in your trip program will be reserved by us on your behalf. Due to the terrain and landscapes of Nepal domestic flights might get caught in weather delays which is why we recommend your return flight back home be changeable at any time.

Accommodation and food during the Pisang Peak Climbing

Altitude Sickness

Altitude sickness, also known as acute mountain sickness (AMS), is a condition that can affect travelers who ascend to high altitudes too quickly. It is caused by the body's inability to adapt quickly enough to the lower air pressure and decreased oxygen levels found at high altitudes. Symptoms often mimic those of a hangover - dizziness, headache, muscle aches, nausea, loss of appetite, and shortness of breath.

There are three forms of altitude sickness:

• Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS): The mildest and most common form, of symptoms include headache, nausea, dizziness, and shortness of breath.
• High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE): This is a more severe condition where fluid builds up in the lungs, causing severe respiratory distress.
• High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE): This is the most severe form of altitude sickness and can be fatal within 24 hours if not treated. Symptoms include confusion, lack of coordination, and seizures.

Prevention is better than treatment when it comes to altitude sickness:

• Ascend Gradually: If possible, do not fly directly into high-altitude areas. If you do, try to rest, avoid physical exertion, and acclimatize for a few days to allow your body to adjust.
• Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water, but avoid alcohol and caffeine as they can increase the risk of dehydration.
• Eat a High-Calorie Diet: Your body needs more energy in higher altitudes.
• Take It Easy: Avoid strenuous exercise for the first few days and get plenty of rest.
• Medication: Drugs like Acetazolamide (Diamox) can help prevent altitude sickness.
• Recognize Symptoms: If you start to experience any symptoms of altitude sickness, descend to a lower altitude immediately and seek medical help.
• Guided Treks: If you're trekking or climbing, consider hiring a guide or joining a group. Experienced guides can recognize the symptoms of altitude sickness and will know what to do if you start to feel unwell.

Remember, altitude sickness can affect anyone, regardless of fitness or age. Always prioritize safety and listen to your body when ascending to higher altitudes.

Currency 

In Nepal, the official currency is the Nepalese Rupee (NPR). Coins are in denominations of NPR 1, 2, 5, and 10, and notes are in denominations of NPR 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, and 1000.

• ATMs and Banks: ATMs are widely available in Kathmandu, Pokhara, and other major cities or tourist areas. They offer a convenient way to withdraw local currency, but transaction fees may apply, so it's good to check with your home bank about international withdrawal fees.
• Credit Cards: Credit cards are accepted at most hotels, restaurants, and larger stores in the cities. However, in remote areas and during treks, it's essential to have cash as credit cards will likely not be accepted.
• Money Exchanges: You can exchange foreign currencies into Nepalese Rupees at banks or licensed money exchange counters. The rate fluctuates daily, so it's good to check the rate before exchanging. US dollars, Euros, and Pounds are widely accepted for exchange.
• Traveler's Checks: These are generally less convenient to use in Nepal, but some major banks in Kathmandu and Pokhara will accept them.
• Cash: It's always good to have some cash handy, particularly in smaller denominations, for small purchases, tips, or in places where cards and digital payments aren't accepted.
• Digital Wallets: Mobile payment platforms or digital wallets like eSewa, Khalti, and IME Pay are increasingly being used in Nepal, especially in urban areas.

Always remember to inform your home bank about your travel plans to ensure that your cards work properly while abroad and to avoid any suspicions of fraudulent activity. As always, safeguard your money and valuables during your trip.

Drinking-Water

In Nepal, tap water is not considered safe for drinking without treatment, especially for foreigners who are not accustomed to the local water. To stay hydrated and healthy during your visit, consider the following options for safe drinking water:

• Bottled Water: This is the most convenient option and is widely available at stores and hotels throughout the country. However, do ensure the seal is intact to avoid any tampered bottles.
• Water Purification Tablets or Drops: These can be used to treat tap water, making it safe to drink. They're lightweight and easy to carry, which makes them a great option for trekkers.
• Water Filters: Portable water filters are another good option for purifying water. There are various types available, including pump filters, bottle filters, and straw filters.
• Boiled Water: Boiling water is a traditional method of making it safe to drink. Most teahouses on trekking routes provide boiled water to trekkers for a small fee.
• UV Treatment Devices: Devices like a SteriPEN use ultraviolet light to kill bacteria, viruses, and other pathogens, making the water safe to drink.

Remember, staying well-hydrated is particularly important at higher altitudes, but always ensure your drinking water is safe. Furthermore, consider using a reusable water bottle and purification method to reduce plastic waste during your visit.

Safety

Safety is a top priority when undertaking the Pisang Peak Expedition or any other outdoor adventure in Nepal. Here are some important safety considerations to keep in mind:

• Experienced Guides and Support Staff: Engaging experienced guides and support staff is crucial for ensuring safety during the Pisang Peak Expedition. These professionals have in-depth knowledge of the region, terrain, and weather conditions. They are trained in mountaineering skills, emergency response, and first aid, providing valuable guidance and support throughout the expedition.
• Physical Fitness and Training: Prioritizing physical fitness and undergoing proper training is essential for the demands of high-altitude climbing. Adequate physical conditioning helps improve endurance, strength, and stamina required for the expedition. Consulting with a healthcare professional ensures you are in good health and physically capable of undertaking the challenges involved.
• Altitude Acclimatization: Allowing sufficient time for proper altitude acclimatization is vital to reduce the risk of altitude sickness. Ascending gradually and incorporating rest days at higher altitudes allows your body to adjust to the decreasing oxygen levels. This helps minimize the chances of altitude-related illnesses and ensures a safer and more enjoyable climb.
• Weather Awareness: Being informed about weather conditions and forecasts is crucial for planning a safe climb. Weather in mountainous areas can be unpredictable, so staying updated on weather changes is important. Planning the expedition during favorable weather windows and being prepared for sudden changes in conditions helps mitigate potential risks.
• Proper Equipment and Gear: Investing in high-quality mountaineering equipment and gear is essential for safety during the expedition. This includes suitable clothing for varying weather conditions, sturdy footwear, climbing equipment, and protective gear. Ensuring that your equipment is well-maintained and in good condition is crucial for optimal performance and safety.
• Emergency Preparedness: Carrying a comprehensive first aid kit and having basic first aid knowledge is important for addressing minor injuries and illnesses during the expedition. It is advisable to carry communication devices such as a satellite phone or walkie-talkie for emergency communication. Understanding evacuation procedures and having contingency plans in place for emergencies is crucial for swift and effective response.
• Environmental Responsibility: Respecting the environment and practicing Leave No Trace principles is important to minimize your impact on the natural surroundings. Follow designated trails, dispose of waste properly, and be mindful of the fragile ecosystem. Adhering to environmental responsibility ensures the preservation of the natural beauty for future generations.
• Personal Safety Measures: Following safety guidelines provided by guides and support staff is essential. Stay alert and aware of your surroundings, particularly during challenging sections of the climb. Promptly communicate any concerns or issues to guides or fellow climbers. Prioritizing personal safety through responsible decision-making and caution is crucial throughout the expedition.

By considering these points and adhering to the explanations provided, you can ensure a safer and more successful Pisang Peak Expedition experience, enjoying the breathtaking beauty of the region while minimizing potential risks and challenges.

Internet and SIM Card

Access to the internet and mobile networks is generally good in urban areas of Nepal, such as Kathmandu and Pokhara, as well as in larger towns along popular trekking routes. However, the connection can be slower and less reliable in more remote areas. There are several options for staying connected during your trip:

• Hotels and Cafes: Most hotels, guesthouses, and cafes in cities and larger towns offer free Wi-Fi to customers. The speed and reliability can vary, but it's usually sufficient for checking emails and social media.
• SIM Cards: If you want to stay connected while you're on the move, consider buying a local SIM card. The two main mobile network providers in Nepal are Ncell and Nepal Telecom. Both offer prepaid SIM cards that can be topped up with data packages, which you can buy from numerous vendors across the country. Remember that you'll need to provide a passport-sized photo and a copy of your passport to buy a SIM card.
• Internet Cafes: Internet cafes can be found in cities and larger towns. They offer computers with internet access for a small fee.
• Satellite Internet: If you're planning on trekking in remote areas where there's no mobile network coverage, you might want to consider renting a satellite phone or a portable Wi-Fi device.

Remember, the internet can be more expensive and less reliable in remote areas compared to the cities. Also, during the trek, charging your devices may come at an extra cost at tea houses and lodges. It's always a good idea to have a backup plan, such as downloading important information or maps for offline use.

Vaccinations & Immunization

Vaccinations and immunizations are an important aspect of preparing for a Pisang Peak Expedition to protect against various diseases and ensure the health and safety of climbers. Here are some commonly recommended vaccinations for travelers to Nepal:

• Routine Vaccinations: Ensure that you are up to date with routine vaccinations such as measles, mumps, rubella (MMR), diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis (DTaP), polio, and varicella (chickenpox). These vaccines are typically part of the standard immunization schedule in many countries.
• Hepatitis A: Hepatitis A is a viral infection that can be transmitted through contaminated food or water. It is recommended for all travelers to Nepal, as the risk of exposure to the virus is higher in areas with poor sanitation and hygiene.
• Hepatitis B: Hepatitis B is a viral infection that can be transmitted through blood, sexual contact, or contaminated needles. It is advisable to consider the hepatitis B vaccine if you may have close contact with locals, require medical treatments, or engage in activities that may expose you to blood or body fluids.
• Typhoid: Typhoid fever is a bacterial infection transmitted through contaminated food or water. It is recommended for travelers visiting areas with limited access to safe and clean food and water, such as rural areas or during longer stays.
• Tetanus-Diphtheria-Pertussis: Ensure that your tetanus, diphtheria, and pertussis (whooping cough) vaccinations are up to date. Tetanus is caused by bacteria found in soil, dust, and animal feces, which can enter the body through open wounds. Diphtheria and pertussis are respiratory infections that can be severe if not adequately vaccinated.
• Malaria: Depending on the regions and time of year you plan to visit in Nepal, there may be a risk of malaria transmission. Consult with a healthcare professional or travel clinic to determine if malaria prophylaxis is necessary for your specific itinerary.
• Rabies: Rabies is a viral infection transmitted through the bite or scratch of infected animals, such as dogs, monkeys, or bats. Consider the rabies vaccine if you anticipate close contact with animals or plan to engage in activities that increase the risk of exposure.
• Other Vaccinations: Additional vaccinations to consider may include influenza (flu) vaccine, Japanese encephalitis vaccine, meningococcal vaccine, and yellow fever vaccine if you are arriving from a country with a risk of yellow fever transmission.

It's important to note that the above list is not exhaustive, and vaccination recommendations can change over time. Make sure to consult with a healthcare professional or travel clinic well in advance of your trip to Nepal to receive personalized advice based on your medical history and travel plans. 

Checklist for the Pisang Peak Climbing 

Climbing Pisang Peak requires thorough preparation and ensuring you have the right gear is essential for a safe and successful expedition. Here's a suggested checklist for the Pisang Peak Climbing:

Climbing Gear:

• Climbing harness
• Ice axe
• Crampons
• Mountaineering boots
• Ascender (Jumar) and descender/belay device
• Carabiners (both locking and non-locking)
• Slings
• Prusik loops or cords
• Helmet
• Crevasse rescue equipment
• Alpine climbing rope

Clothing:

• Base layers (tops and bottoms)
• Fleece jacket and pants
• Down jacket
• Waterproof jacket and pants
• Trekking trousers and shorts
• Thermal gloves and waterproof gloves
• Climbing gloves
• Sun hat and woolen/fleece hat
• Balaclava or neck gaiter
• Mountaineering socks and trekking socks

Footwear:

• Trekking shoes
• Mountaineering boots
• Sandals or comfortable shoes for camp

Personal Equipment:

• Backpack (50-70 liters)
• Daypack (20-30 liters)
• Sleeping bag (rated to at least -20°C)
• Sleeping pad
• Headlamp with extra batteries
• Sunglasses with UV protection
• Prescription glasses/contact lenses, if needed
• Trekking poles

Personal Essentials:

• Sunscreen
• Lip balm with sunblock
• Water bottles or hydration bladder
• Water purification tablets or personal water filter
• First-aid kit
• Prescription medications and personal medications
• Wet wipes and hand sanitizer
• Toilet paper
• Quick-drying towel

Navigation and Communication:

• Map and compass
• GPS device
• Satellite phone
• Walkie-talkies

Miscellaneous:

• Camera with extra batteries
• Portable battery charger
• Energy bars and snacks
• Multi-tool or knife
• Duct tape (for repairs)
• Lightweight book or e-reader
• Note pad and pen/pencil
• Earplugs and eye mask

Important Documents:

• Passport (with photocopies)
• Necessary permits for Pisang Peak Climbing
• Travel insurance details
• Emergency contact details

Optional:

• Gaiters (for snow or rain)
• Pee bottle (for nighttime use in the tent)
• Thermos (for hot drinks on cold days)
• Lightweight binoculars

Remember, while packing, it's essential to consider the weight limits, especially if you're using porters. Ensure all gear is tested and broken in, especially boots, before the expedition. Always check the current and forecasted weather conditions for the region, and adjust your gear accordingly.

Tipping

Tipping is a common practice in Nepal, including for expedition staff, guides, and porters. While tipping is not mandatory, it is customary and appreciated as a way to acknowledge the hard work and dedication of the individuals who have supported you during your Pisang Peak Expedition. Here are some general guidelines for tipping:

• Expedition Guides: It is recommended to allocate a tip for the expedition guides who have provided guidance, leadership, and support throughout the climb. The amount can vary depend
• ing on the length and complexity of the expedition, but a typical range is around $20 to $30 per day for the lead guide.
• Climbing Sherpas: Climbing Sherpas play a crucial role in supporting the expedition and ensuring your safety during the ascent. It is customary to tip the Sherpas individually based on their level of involvement and assistance. The recommended range is around $15 to $20 per day for each climbing Sherpa.
• Support Staff: This includes cooks, kitchen helpers, porters, and other support staff involved in the expedition. The recommended range for tipping support staff is around $10 to $15 per day, to be divided among the team.
• Base Camp Staff: If you have a dedicated base camp team, such as a cook and kitchen helpers, it is customary to tip them separately. The recommended amount is around $10 to $15 per day, to be divided among the base camp staff.
• Group Tip: It is common for expedition members to contribute to a group tip that can be given to the entire staff as a collective token of appreciation. The recommended amount for a group tip is around $50 to $100 per member, depending on the size of the group and the duration of the expedition.

Remember that these are general guidelines, and tipping is ultimately based on your discretion and satisfaction with the services provided. It's a good idea to prepare a separate envelope with the total tip amount in Nepalese Rupees (NPR) or US Dollars (USD) to distribute at the end of the expedition. 

1. Introduction of Nepal
2. Before Traveling Nepal
3. While You are in Nepal
4. Before You Plan Nepal Trip